When you are a vegetarian in Kazakhstan, people immediately take notice. In America, my diet is slightly atypical, but here—I am an anomaly. Nearly everyone who hears that I do not eat meat wants to know more about me and why I made this decision. This did not come as a surprise to me. Kazakh cuisine is composed mostly of meat and other animal products. There is a saying in Kazakhstan: “Only wolves eat more meat than Kazakhs.” Despite this, in my first week in Kazakhstan, people here have gone out of their way to give me a sampling of their cuisine—vegetarianskiy.
Manty
Manty is usually a meat-filled dumpling traditional in Central Asia. Usually the filling for these dumplings are made of beef or mutton with seasoning and onions mixed in, and it is a favorite for many Central Asians, as well as American visitors. In my first week, I have had two vegetarian versions of manty. The first was filled with carrots, cabbage, onion, and other veggies, all prepared with salt and pepper. A friend showed me where I can buy these near the office, so I am sure they will become a lunchtime staple for me. The second version had a filling composed of potatoes, onions, salt, and pepper. It was absolutely delicious, and the potato-base for the filling made it hearty and satisfying, just like its meaty predecessor.
Beshbarmaq
Beshbarmaq is the national dish of Kazakhstan and is often the go-to dish for special occasions. It is made of a bottom layer of pasta, which has a similar shape to lasagna. Meat (usually horse meat, but beef or mutton is also common) and onions are piled on top of the pasta layer. My host grandmother made me a similar dish without meat. In the meatless version, the pasta layer was topped with stewed eggplant, bell peppers, potatoes, and onions.
Oroma
Oroma is a Central Asian dish which, like Manty, is composed of dough and filling. The main difference is that Manty is a dumpling, and Oroma is a wrap, so it has a different shape. It is not unusual to find Oroma with a sweet pumpkin filling, but meat versions do exist as well. Unlike the other two dishes on this list, the traditional version of Oroma is often vegetarian. I decided to include it because it is an excellent vegetarian option for those interested in trying traditional Kazakh cuisine without meat.
Although vegetarian options are not difficult to find in Kazakhstan’s cafes and restaurants, it would be difficult to consider meals in these venues a genuine cultural experience. Kazakh traditional meals are meant to be enjoyed at home. In fact, finding a restaurant that serves beshbarmaq is not as easy as one might expect. This is why I am so incredibly grateful to my hosts and coworkers who have given me the opportunity to have a traditional Kazakh experience despite my vegetarianism.
Program: Overseas Professional and Intercultural Training Program
Term: Summer 2017