Ajmo na kafu” is a very common sentence in Serbia, meaning “Let’s get coffee”. Cafe and coffee culture in Serbia and across the Balkans is quite different than in the United States. In Serbia, it’s common for friends and family to call each other any day of the week and invite each other to coffee at a local cafe or at their homes. “Ajmo na kafu” isn’t exclusively related to drinking coffee. I don’t drink coffee, so I usually order tea or juice. The sentence is associated with spending time with one another and chatting, whether it’s in the morning, after work, or even late at night. I’ve noticed groups of friends at cafes late at night during the work week, which is something I don’t see often in the United States.
Oftentimes, these coffee dates aren’t short-lasting. People sit in cafes for at least an hour and slowly drink their beverages. Serbians love to chat, so if you’re invited to coffee, don’t expect a thirty-minute conversation or small talk. It’s a simple activity that is an integral part of life in Serbia and serves as an opportunity for socializing any day of the week. It’s a way to retain strong friendships and connections and it helps maintain a balance between work and personal life. I think this balance is incredibly important to people in Serbia. During work breaks, I’ve seen people sitting outside their office buildings or stores, sitting on small benches, drinking traditional coffee out of small cups.
Many Serbians live at a slower pace than Americans, which is exemplified in this coffee and cafe culture. Cities like Belgrade, of course, do operate at a faster pace than smaller towns and villages, so there are a lot of places that offer to-go coffee. However, the rise of to-go coffee offerings haven’t taken away from the important ritual of meeting friends over cups of coffee.
In my experience, in the United States, I usually have to plan to see my friends several days to at least a week in advance so we can coordinate schedules and plan where we’re going to go. I’m a big planner so this is practically second nature to me, but it’s quite relaxing to sit in a cafe with friends and take our time, not rushing to finish our beverages. It’s one of my favorite parts about Serbia and it’s something I know I will miss when I return to Arizona.
While I’ve been in Serbia, I’ve taken advantage of this culture, trying different teas at cafes across Belgrade. I’ve visited cafes and restaurants with my conversation partner and her friends, spending several hours at a time chatting. I’ve visited cafes with my aunt in Pančevo and friends from Arizona who’ve traveled to the Balkans to visit family. It’s been incredibly fun to visit new cafes, since there are hundreds of them across Belgrade. As far as I’ve noticed, there aren’t many chain cafes. Starbucks is expanding across Belgrade and it’s quite popular, but it hasn’t dimmed the light of small, family-run cafes like it has in Phoenix, Arizona; and I doubt that it ever would.
After being in Serbia for a few weeks, I decided to start sitting in cafes by myself to read and to spend time outside under shade. My favorite cafe and restaurant is Saint Mark’s Place which has an amazing view of Saint Mark’s Church in Belgrade. I usually find a table as close to the church as I can get that is still shaded and order their homemade iced tea. I’ll spend an hour to an hour and a half there, reading my book or listening to music as I take in the views of Belgrade. I never feel rushed to pay my bill and leave. In fact, many times in Serbia, you have to hunt your server down to get your bill.
Taking advantage of Serbia’s coffee and cafe culture has been one of the best things about my time in Belgrade. Through it, I’ve learned to slow down a bit and appreciate a cup of tea and my surroundings. I hope that when I return to Arizona, I will call up friends and say “ajmo na kafu”.
American Councils Study Abroad Need-Based Scholarship Recipient
Belgrade, Serbia, Summer 2023