Nauryz is the pre-islamic New Year celebrated by millions in Kazakhstan and other countries including Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Kyrgyzstan, Iran, and Turkmenistan. Nauryz means “new day” and is a time of new beginnings and neighborliness. People celebrate with gatherings, music, dancing and foods. Nauryz generally starts on March 21st and ends March 23rd.
I was invited to Atakent by a local friend, Abdu, in Almaty for the Nauryz weekend. Atakent is a small, remote village in the southern tip of Kazakhstan. The bus trip from Almaty to Shymkent was about 10 hours due to holiday traffic—a 3-hour difference from a regular day. Once we arrived to Shymkent, we carpooled and drove an additional three hours southward.
The weather was significantly warmer. The land was flatter and greener than that of Almaty. Cows often blocked the road. Horses treaded along the sides of the roads with sheep, chickens and ducks. Most buildings appeared new. Mosques were being constructed. Altogether with the sight of dozens of greenhouses and incoming and outgoing trucks, this region seemed like a thriving agricultural community.
When we arrived to Atakent, I was immediately greeted with a warm welcome by the entire family. They waited for us at the door of the countryside home where I met Adu’s grandparents, parents and seven younger siblings. We were led upstairs for lunch. The table was surrounded by plush cushions, and was generously prepared with green tea, dry fruits, nuts, chocolate cake, fresh tvorog, homemade lepyoshka, assorted horse sausage and pilaf. I felt like a royal guest.
Later, we went to the park to play soccer with his siblings. Abbas, Abdu’s 8-year-old brother, forbade me from speaking English. Otherwise, everyone would want to take pictures with the American. It was not too long before they found out that an American had come into town. The next day, a local, Kanat, invited me to his home for beshbarmak, a traditional Kazakh horse and noodle dish. Again, I was greeted with a feast and I ate until I could no longer feel my legs. Kanat invited all his friends who happened to be top athletes including a soccer player, arm-wrestling champion of Kazakhstan, jiujitsu and sambo fighters, and himself, a former wrestler, and now coach. I was honored to have received the distinction of an honored guest. Kanat gave me a shapan, a traditional Kazakh robe and requested that I take pictures with his mother, grandmother and friends. He also wished peace and harmony between our countries.
The next day, Abdu’s family invited me to pray at the mosque. I was concerned considering that I was a Christian. However, he assured me that I was welcome to pray with them. Abdu showed me the way Muslims pray and I joined in prayer alongside dozens of Muslims for the first time in my life. Prayer lasted about 25 minutes. It was truly a unique experience.
The last day, we went to visit Abdu’s relatives who owned a horse farm. I met his other grandparents, 3 aunts and uncles, and his 10 cousins who were over for dinner. I was greeted with eagerness and excitement. His 6-year-old cousin immediately asked what he can do once he gets to America. I chuckled and replied, “study and then work”. At the table, we had milk tea, Coca-Cola, various salads, samsa, lepyoshka, lamb shashlik (smoked meat), horse sausage and chocolate cake. Abdu’s grandfather jokingly said, “Eat! In America you have a feast like this everyday, but us Kazakhs only eat like this once a year! So, eat!” After dinner, they gave me a gift bag and one to give to my mother back in the US. I was honored and impressed by their hospitality. Later, they invited me to take a ride around their farm on their horse, Sairan.
I was delighted to discover how hospitable Kazakh people are. I truly felt a part of their community. Nauryz is a special holiday in Kazakhstan. This holiday promotes peace and unity, despite a person’s religious, ethnic or cultural background. I will always remember as a cherished memory the meals, laughs and conversations we shared during Nauryz.
Program: Russian Language & Area Studies, Almaty, Kazakhstan
Term: Academic Year 2018-19