It has been one month since I started the Advanced Russian Language and Area Studies Program (RLASP) with American Councils in Yerevan, Armenia, and time is flying by!
I visited Yerevan as an undergraduate back in 2013, and it is a very different place from what I remember ten years ago. The city seems to be much more vibrant, with more people walking in the city with their families, more bustling restaurants, and an overall sense that something interesting is always happening. Getting around is incredibly easy, and it is a nice, peaceful break from the intensity of New York city or Boston. I try to visit Republic Square and the Cascades as many times as I can to enjoy the city’s many cafes (Lumen and Green Leaf are my personal favorites), taste delicious ice cream, or just take a stroll through the parks. I also thoroughly enjoy speaking Russian with the locals and having them respond back in Russian, despite my obvious American accent. It is a strong confidence booster.
This confidence booster is simply a result of the many hours learning Russian in class. The immersion program is intense and sometimes intimidating, but I have already witnessed an improvement in my speaking capabilities. It is a cool feeling to discuss a poet’s use of metaphor or Armenia’s history entirely in Russian, and just the other day I read a short story by Anton Chekhov and imagined his scene in my head (and even got a bit emotional) without the help of needing the text translated.
The excursions American Councils has provided for the participants have been nothing short of incredible. Taking a Russian language tour of Republic Square was interesting and visiting the neighborhood of Kond (an optional choice that most students participated in) was a unique experience. It’s the oldest neighborhood in Yerevan, with narrow alleys, art all over, and an energy that tells the visitor: “People have lived here for centuries.”
Our second visit was to Etchmiadzin, and two additional Armenian churches. In one church (built in 630 CE) a wave of incense hit me when I entered, and for a moment I closed my eyes, took a deep breath, and felt totally at peace. The architecture of Etchmiadzin presents a dichotomy between Soviet architecture and ancient Armenian Christian architecture. During this visit I experienced yet another benefit to my language learning by learning facts about the Armenian church while listening to our tour guide speak to us completely in Russian. During this excursion we also had the opportunity to participate in cultural immersion, and most of us got a hands-on experience learning how to make lavash in the way that it’s been made for centuries.
Lastly, just the other day I saw Mount Ararat for the first time since I have been here. The odd thing is, I don’t remember seeing it in Yerevan the last time I was here. Maybe that’s the magic to this holy mountain: it makes everyone feel like they are witnessing it for the first time each time they set their gaze upon it.
Title VIII Research and Training Fellow
Fulbright-Hays Fellowship Recipient
Advanced Russian Language and Area Studies Program
Yerevan, Armenia, Summer 2023