From a Western perspective, Kazakhstan may come across as the “middle of nowhere”. The country is not very populous or receive much limelight in western-centric media. However, given the history of Central Asia, Kazakhstan turns out to be the middle of everything - Central Asia has long been a crossroads of civilization, a melting pot of different cultures along the Silk Road. One weekend our group went on an excursion to the ancient cities of Taraz and Turkestan, where we were able to see the remnants of Kazakhstan’s medieval state and learn about the impact of these cities on the Silk Road.
Aisha Bibi Mausoleum, believed to have been constructed during the 11th or 12th century under the Karakhanid Dynasty. According to legend, the mausoleum was built by a Karahanid Dinasty ruler for his beautiful fiancée Aisha-Bibi, a daughter of Sufi poet Khakim ata.[/caption]
During the first day of our trip, we toured Taraz. Historians believe Taraz is home to a 2000-year old fortress, which would establish Taraz as the most ancient city in Kazakhstan. During its long history, Taraz has been under the control of multiple civilizations and was an important trading center on the Silk Road.
The next day, we went to Turkestan, known for the Khoja Akhmet Yassawi Mausoleum, one of the most important religious sites in Kazakhstan. According to a Kazakh tradition, three pilgrimages to Turkestan are equivalent to one hajj to Mecca.
The outside of the Mausoleum. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of the largest and best preserved constructions of the Timurid period.[/caption]
The Mausoleum was built in the 14th century under the Timurid Empire. The Timurid Empire fell in the early 16th century and Turkestan fell under the control of the Kazakh Khanate. During the Soviet Union the mausoleum was closed to pilgrims due to the official atheism policy and placed under preservationists. However, authorities secretly let pilgrims in at night.
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The mausoleum’s exterior features intricate religious designs.[/caption]
Our visit to Taraz and Turkestan provided a stark contrast to the other two cities I have been to in Kazakhstan – the capital Astana and the largest city Almaty. Astana is a hyper-modern city with contemporary architectural wonders and an almost eerie sense of emptiness. Almaty, where I am based, has a distinctively post-Soviet and busy feel. Taraz and Turkestan provided a window to Kazakhstan’s past as a crossroads of civilization, and a metaphorical crossroads between Kazakhstan’s past and its imagined future.
By: Edwin Portugal
Program: Advanced Russian Language and Area Studies
Term: Fall 2017